Not yet rated
Loading ...CMOS Clear Switch
clocked
So I’ve finally gotten around to adding my CMOS Clear Switch to the side panel of my new computer. I purchased a 5×2 DIL socket which is suitable for connection to all pinouts on my motherboard. I also purchased a Key Operated DPDT switch. An SPDT would have served the same purpose, but the electronic suppliers had none so I was forced to settle for the DPDT version, and a packet of 1.5mm heat shrink.
I used 2 pair communications cable to connect the switch to the DIL socket. I stripped one end and added three small pieces of heat shrink to the three wires I intended to use, noting which colours would be connected to which pins on the DIL. Soldering the wires to the tiny contacts was extremely difficult, but with a little patience and a vice I managed to make a somewhat neat job of it. I then slid the pieces of heat shrink up over the connections and heated them with a blowtorch. I then estimated the length of wire I’d require, cut it to length, stripped the wires and soldered the wire connected to the centre pin of the the DIL socket to the common terminal on the switch, connecting the other two wires to the two poles of the switch. Using a digital multimeter I worked out which direction connected to which pole and set it to the “Keep” side. Finally, I applied some hot glue to the connections on the switch. The computer POSTed and booted with the switch installed. I then shut it down switched to the “Clear” side, left it for about 10 seconds, the switched back and again powered on the PC. On POST I was presented with the screen telling me the BIOS had been reset, giving options for continuing with default values or entering the BIOS menu.
Knowing that everything worked I then drilled the side panel, attached the Key Switch and closed the case.
Since my last post I’ve purchased a TV tuner, a Hauppauge HVR-1100, and I’m having some fun playing with that at the moment. I also added the old 56k modem from my last PC, a Dell Dimension 2300, as I’m still on a dial-up connection, living in the middle of nowhere. I hope to upgrade to real internet soon, possibly over satellite or WiMax.
My plans now include doing away with the power button, and using a touch sensitive switch attached to the case to turn on and off the computer, tidying up the wiring inside the case and finally invest in an LCD TFT. Hopefuly I’ll get started with the new Power on/off system within the next week, and I’ll update the blog as soon as there’s any progress.
Brilliant idea chap. I would save myself sooooo much time with one of these. I’d like it to be like a missile switch in a fighter jet - a big red toggle switch with a clear flip up cover so I dont press it accidentaly. The again the power button would look pretty cool with something similar. And a little LCD screen with temp and fan speed, etc. Hmmmmm, new case mod idea FIGHTER JET DASHBOARD!
or something like this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=37319&doy=28m3
WHY?
But WHY??????
Yeah, that’s pretty much why I went for the key switch, to avoid accidents. I also have a younger sister and being able to take the key away with me is quite comforting, knowing my bios won’t be cleared while the computer’s turned on.
To Kev: If you’ve ever inched an overclock a little bit too far, which seem to happen quite often with my Phenom, you’ll want to reset your bios, which on most motherboard, besides the very expensive overclockers’ boards which have bios clear switches on the back panel, necessitates the opening of your computer to move the CMOS clear jumper. If the inside of your computer looked anything like the inside of mine that process could involve the removal of a graphics card ( the HD3870 is seriously long ) and a few cables going to USB headers. Basically, it’s a practical mod.
Idea for your cockpit mod:
Build a small deshboard that sits around your keyboard and mouse, with your power, reset and bios clear switches, and your fan, hard-drive, CPU and temperature monitors on it. Run a large communications cable from it through a backplate in your computer and make all the connections. Using a toggle switch for your power button mightn’t be the best idea, your motherboard just needs to get a connection for a short time. I’m currently trying to solve a similar problem myself, as I want to make my computer touch sensitive to power it on