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—11 9 07
I have some pics for the loop test…
-I managed to get the holes right, even though I didn’t take the bracket off the board to measure it. Copying the shape of the heatsink made sure I didn’t hit any obstacles. You can see the close fit of the capacitors here.
-A close fit on the NB sink. Do they make a waterblock that works with this crazy clamp system? I don’t think I can make one… -and the booger is a real toaster.
-A quick leaktest with everything hooked to the old life support machine. It needed to be used, even if just for testing.
-A closeup of the block. It’s cool watching air bubbles shoot around the maze.
-Everything hooked up in Hypnotoad for testing. Excuse the mess… There was lots of sanding going on.
-Powered up and testing…
With the stock heat sink the temps were: (78 degrees F room temp. 1/2 water/antifreeze mix.)
135 F at startup
148 F max load
Water block temps:
111 F startup
123 F maxed out
It probably helped alot that the engine block reservoir had more than a quart of coolant in it. These numbers were better than I was expecting. It really decreased the ambient heat coming from the system.
-I’m short 1 washer and I really don’t like the fit of the ones I have. I decided to make some plexi ones, TribalOverkill-style…
…Only a little safer. I clamped a file in my vise and used it to index the cutting.
-Here’s the first 4 on the block. I made another set to go between the mobo and the waterblock. I need to make some more for the back of the board.
Right now I need to go shopping for some sandpaper. 150 grit is perfect for the first pass on plastic, but I can only find 100 & 200… (how picky can I get?) This project may force me to change my name to ‘big spender’.
a 150 grit wet sand paper would be awesome, It would help me not burn my fingers while sanding.
—13 9 07
SOMEONE talked me into trying a northbridge waterblock too. I’m thinking I’ll stack and glue up some bits of lexan for the top. I was checking the tension on the spring and I think I can still use it.
The problem is that will make what I made today unuseable…
-This is going to be a fanshroud/motherboard cover to channel air over the northbridge sink and the capacitors. It is the most hellish bit of geometry I have ever worked on. I will need to clear the outlet for the radiator, the waterblock, and the plumbing for the waterblock. The amusing part is I went ahead with this without a test fit of the motherboard and waterblock! I plan on chopping until I either have something that works, or I have a big pile of plastic doo doo.
-clamping and gluing the fan mount in place. The fan is wedged in there to keep the sides the right width. To keep the vises in place I used duct tape…it seemed like an appropriate choice.
-Using old tapes for marking the height the bottom needed to be cut at.
-cutting a channel for the radiator outlet. I’m saving all the filing of the rough edges for later.
-The last bit for today was to fill in the channel. I will need to cut out part of this so the fan can fit inside. The top screws need to be accessed from the outside, so I’m thinking of using some acrylic tubing I have laying around.
—16 9 07
-First up…I cut and trimmed the duct up some more, then got sidetracked again…
-I started a northbridge waterblock. I’m working with lexan/polycarbonate because I need to almost cut the top in half for the retention spring. I noticed pretty quickly that lexan likes to bubble up when you glue it. I gets really soft when the solvent hits it. I found out later it stays soft for long time too.
-Here’s how I found out. Even hand turning didn’t keep the 1/2″ bit from ripping the top layer loose. I let the whole thing cure for 24 hours before continuing and used a lot of cutting oil.
-It looks like I finally have a use for the IPS #16 I bought. This Is a thick, gooey solvent that works with rough fits.
-Between the mangled surface and the filler glue, I ended up with a really cloudy fusion.
-Here I have machined a channel and tapped the holes for the barbs.
-Rotozip routing a coverplate to hide the ugly glue. This is actually a 2 handed job, but someone’s got to take the pic…
-I deepened the channel by adding a 1/8″ layer. The glue mangled the bottom.
-Here’s what I have so far -Only 1 barb polished and the whole thing in need of sanding.
The big question I have now is: Will this work with only a 1/8″ aluminum plate, or am I about to cook a northbridge?
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